Across the valley banks of mist swirled above a church steeple poking through the dense vegetation. From the Trans-Flores Highway Dino had glimpsed the crest of Kelimutu through the clouds, and we soon found ourselves gunning up a slender road towards the summit.
Kelimutu means “mountain lake” in the local language (Keli is mountain, mutu is lake), but its ordinary name suggests none of the trio’s unique traits. Although they originate from the same volcano, each has its own palette of changing colours dictated by the minerals within. Two of the lakes are also dangerously acidic, with pH levels hovering between 0.4 and 1.9.
According to legend, Kelimutu is actually a family of four: father “Konde”, mother “Ratu” and their children “Tomi” and “Nombu”. But Nombu the daughter lake cannot be seen as she exists in the spirit realm. Dino had told us this upon reaching a viewpoint on the crater rim, after treading through a mist-laden forest on a path carpeted infallen pine needles.
But we saw nothing – only a thick blanket of fog. “When you come to Kelimutu,” Dino said, “tell Konde Ratu you want to see them.” He whistled into the wall of white beyond the metal railing, and moments later – as though by magic – the mist lifted just enough to see the married pair: Konde was the colour of dark chocolate, while ravishing Ratu looked teal green over a shared crater wall.
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